Conquering Volcano Acantenango

Acatenango is one of the highest volcanoes in Central America, 3,976 meters high. It is an active volcano, but the last eruption was in 1972. Right next to the Acatenango, is the volcano Fuego, literally translated as the fire volcano. This one is a lot more active and every 20 minutes it spits ash, rocks and lava. The last major eruption was on June 4, 2018, and caused more than 60 deaths. Since I had 2 weeks to spend in Guatemala, I could not pass up on the opportunity to take on this beast. Here’s everything you can expect from this hike, it was not an easy one.

At 7 A.M. my alarm clock went off and my heart was racing with both excitement and anxiety. Today was the day that I took on the monster that is called Acantenango. I packed up my hiking gear and headed off to Wicho & Charlie’s tour agency. Here, I met up with hikers from other hostels that would be joining me on this fateful expedition. We were all greeted with a shot of beet juice and a delicious breakfast buffet consisting of banana pancakes, fresh fruits, and plenty of coffee to go around. Promptly at 10 A.M. a bus came to pick us up and we drove for an hour until we reached the base of this magnificent beast. Our group was small, joining me was Cam, from New Zealand and Paulien, from the Netherlands; accompanied by our tour guide, Leo, and his adorable dog.

The entire hike took between 4 to 6 hours, we finished in roughly 4.5 hours. By the time we reached base camp, it was cloudy and the fog made it impossible to see anything. To add to our disappointment, it was also raining and freezing! Luckily, our tents were already set up, each had sleeping bags, warm blankets, and enough space for 6 people. We took shelter for the night in the cooking tent, and shared warm glasses of rum, along with mugs of delicious hot chocolate and marshmallows. They both tasted like heaven in the cold air and warmed up our entire bodies. We played a couple of board games before it was time for dinner, which consisted of a delicious bowl of bolognese pasta and a glass of wine. By 6 P.M. we all climbed into our shared tent, got into our sleeping bags, and snuggled next to one another for body heat. I barely got any sleep in before 4 o’clock came around and our guide shouted, “Good morning everyone! Come look, come look! There is fire in the sky!”. Sure, enough, the skies cleared and we saw Acantenango’s neighbor, Fuego, erupting right next to us. You could see lava spewing everywhere, followed up the “booms” and “crackles” that kept us up all night.

In the morning, the misty light began to shine through the tall pine trees, everything seems to be covered in a mystery before the sun came up. You could take an additional hour hike to the summit to watch the sunrise or stay back at the camp. Either way, the views are absolutely astonishing no matter which route you chose. As the sun rose, the clouds are purple, pink and orange as though the sky appears to be on fire. After we relaxed at the campfire, finished our breakfast, and took in the last views, we began our descent back to the base. The hike back down was much easier and only took about 2 hours. The last part being the most difficult since it was down a steep hill, completely covered in volcanic ash that was made up of small, crumbling rocks; you had to either make a run for it or risk falling on your bum the entire time!

The first hour of the trek was said to be the most difficult. The ground is covered in volcanic ash so every step forward, you’ll slide half a step back. After what felt like a lifetime, we reached the main office where we paid our entrance fee, 50 quetzales per person ($6.50 USD). From here, the scenery is already beautiful, with large meadows full of flowers and below them, small valleys surrounded by hills. After 10 more minutes of hiking we passed the farmland area and entered the forest. The ground is harder now and much easier to navigate. Don’t let that fool you though, the entire hike is steep, consisting of stairs, and switchbacks after switchbacks.

We climbed for another 30 minutes before taking our lunch break which consisted of a delicious hummus sub filled with carrots and spinach. We were each responsible for carrying our own water, 3 liters was recommended with an additional 1 liter, that would later be used to cook our dinner. After lunch, we continued our hike to the area called the Cloud Forest. This was the easiest part of the hike where the ground leveled again and the temperature was much cooler and bearable. By the time we reached the final bit to base camp, my legs were on fire! The altitude finally hit me, and even though it was only a short 25 minutes upwards, I found myself gasping for air with every tiny step that I took. My head was pounding at this point.

Although we experienced bad weather, it was still an incredible experience. I mean, how many people can say that they’ve slept on a volcano and was able to hear and see its neighbor erupt throughout the night, then be able to witness the most incredible sunrise. I definitely recommend booking your expedition with Wicho & Charlie’s Tours. They hire local farmers and teach them english, so that they can lead the tours. They even donate most of their proceeds to animal shelters! Although my entire body was sore for the next couple of days, I still had the biggest smile when I thought back to this once in a lifetime hike. If you’re looking for a unique and thrilling outdoor adventure, put Acatenango Volcano on your bucket list.